Morelian and Michoacán pride oozes out of the kitchen at Los Mirasoles where you'll dine in a fine Unesco-quality house bedecked (among other quirks) with a copy of the Las Tarascas fountain. The food is doused in regional flavors.

Try the atapakua de huachinango (fish in a mole-like sauce). This was the dish served in Peru during Mexico's bid to have its cuisine listed as an Intangible Cultural Heritage by Unesco (realized in 2010). The wine cellar stocks 250 vintages.