Off the highway beside a rushing creek on the way into town (look for signs at the El Paraíso turnoff), San Diego is a true mountain escape. Head down to the wood fish shack, where you can watch trout being caught and prepared. The fish a la mexicana, stuffed with Oaxacan cheese, tomatoes, chilies and thick chunks of garlic, is excellent.

There are also two comfortable but rustic cabins available for rent, one smaller (up to four people, Sunday to Thursday M$650, Friday and Saturday M$750) than the other (up to 10 people, M$200 per person).