A favorite destination for good, and also mass-produced, handicrafts from all over Mexico. Worth seeking out are Oaxaca alebrijes (whimsical painted animals), hand-painted Talavera tiles from Puebla, guitars from Paracho and Huichol beadwork. Stock up on sun hats for Teotihuacán and wrestling masks. Prices are generally fair, even before you bargain.
Take a break at the fonda (family restaurant) at its centre. Outside are stalls selling books and vintage vinyl records.