Yambigapan Estancia Rural

Campground in Reserva de la Biosfera Los Tuxtlas

Three kilometers or so from San Andrés Tuxtla, this family-run rural homestay has two very rustic cabañas with spectacular views. Not to be missed are the cooking classes from the doña of the house, Amelia, who will teach you traditional Mexican cooking and its history (in Spanish) in her homey kitchen for M$250. Taxi (around M$45) is the easiest way to arrive.

There's a great restaurant on the premises; swimming in the nearby river, Arroyo Seco; and guided hikes. An all-day summit of Volcán San Martín can also be arranged. If you're counting your pesos, ask a pirata (pickup truck) going to Ruíz Cortines to leave you at the turnoff and follow the signs for Yambigapan that eventually lead you up a long dirt driveway. It should cost about M$10.