Set in a rambling art nouveau house, this restaurant is a stunner in every way. The cuisine is largely from the Durango region and it would be fair to say that absolutely anything is tasty. The menu is simple and largely spoken, but the affable owner, Carlos, does speak basic English. Try the plato combinado – a selection of the chef's four prize dishes (M$111).
Also excellent is chiles en nogada (mild green chilies stuffed with meat and fruit, fried in batter and served with a sauce of cream, ground walnuts and cheese).
It's a little hard to find: the door is unmarked and it's on a quiet residential area on the northwest corner of Jesús and Reforma.