Run by the larger than life, traditionally dressed Nelly Córdova, this delightful open-air restaurant specializes in rekindling half-forgotten traditional Tabasco dishes, including some from the Maya period. Think thick chocolate moles, turkey stew and bananas stuffed with beans and pork. Everything is cooked on open wood fires and served in clay bowls.
Oh, and roll up your sleeves because there's no cutlery so you can ignore everything your mother ever said about eating with your fingers. It's very close to the archaeological site.