Alfama, Lisbon, Portugal

Alfama, with its labyrinthine alleyways, hidden courtyards and curving, shadow-filled lanes, is a magical place to lose all sense of direction and delve into the soul of Lisbon. On the journey you'll pass breadbox-sized grocers; brilliantly tiled buildings; and cosy taverns filled with easy-going chatter, the scent of chargrilled sardines and the mournful rhythms of fado drifting in the breeze. Then you round a bend and catch sight of steeply pitched rooftops leading down to the glittering Tejo river and you know you're hooked.