During rough weather, the grey clay slopes and limestone crags of Fomm ir-Riħ merge with the grey clouds and the wave-muddied waters. But on a calm summer's day it's a beautiful spot, with good swimming and snorkelling in the clear blue waters off the southern cliffs, and few other people to disturb the peace.

To reach the head of the bay from the car park, hike around 800m. You need to follow a precarious footpath across a stream bed and along a ledge in the cliffs. Locals say that former Maltese Prime Minister Dom Mintoff used to ride his horse along this path – today posts have been cemented in place to prevent horses and bicycles using it.