Night Market

Top choice hawker in Kota Kinabalu

Image by Tom Cockrem Getty Images

There may be garbage and fish guts underfoot, and the dining may be as simple as can be – just some plastic tables under some tarpaulin – but the air is smoky and redolent of grilling seafood, chicken hearts on skewers, glazed chicken wings and steaming plates of garlicky Sabah vegetable (edible fern). No booze, since there's a mosque nearby.

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