Just sitting around Vwaza’s main camp will bring plenty of animal sightings, for it overlooks Lake Kazuni, which is inhabited by hundreds of hippos. On most days you’ll see crocodiles lying out in the sun, hippos popping their heads out of the water, and a steady parade of animals coming down for a drink.

A good network of drivable tracks in the reserve is navigable in a 4WD or high-clearance vehicle; if you’re in a 2WD, ask at the gate or camp for advice on the condition of the tracks. The best driving route is along the southern edge of the reserve, parallel to the river, heading to Zoro Pools.