With its chilly elevation, decrepit red-brick church, faded cricket club and old colonial buildings nestled in the wooded foothills, Zomba is hauntingly special; like a chapter of the British Empire hanging by a tenuous thread. Yes it has the typical chaos of a dusty market, but the higher you head up the ghostly Zomba Plateau, the more stunning and pristine the scenery becomes. The capital of Malawi from 1891 until...
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