Flights & getting there
From Salima, minibuses and matolas (pickups) run to Senga Bay (MK500), dropping you in the main street. If you want a lift all the way to Steps Campsite, negotiate an extra fee with the driver. A private taxi costs MK3500 to MK5000 from Salima, depending on where you want to be dropped.
From Lilongwe, buses (MK1700, two hours) and minibuses (MK1500), the latter departing more frequently but more packed, run to Salima. AXA buses stop at Salima bus station, which has an AXA office, en route up/down the lake between Mzuzu and Blantyre.
If you’re travelling to/from Cape Maclear, consider chartering a boat; it’s not too expensive if you get a group together (US$220 through Cool Runnings guesthouse). There's also the Ilala ferry, which sails to Monkey Bay on Wednesday morning, and heads north from Monkey Bay to Senga Bay and beyond on Friday. Additionally the weekly MV Chambo ferry sails to/from Metangula (Mozambique) via Makanjila.
Self-drivers can fuel up at the petrol station.