Accommodation is split between basic lodges on the lower northern slopes of the massif and rustic mountain huts. Camping is permitted only near huts. Mulanje Infocentre rents out sleeping bags (per day MK3000) and can organise tents (per day MK7000). For plusher accommodation, head to Mulanje town or the area's tea estates.
On Mulanje are eight forestry huts: Chambe, Chisepo, Lichenya, Thuchila, Chinzama, Minunu, Madzeka and Sombani. Each is equipped with benches, tables, two toilets and open fires with plenty of wood. Some have sleeping platforms (no mattresses); in others you just sleep on the floor. Book through the Mulanje Infocentre or Likhubula Forestry Office – show your receipt to the hut caretaker.
You provide your own food, cooking gear, candles, sleeping bag and stove (although you can cook on the fire). The caretaker chops wood, lights fires and brings water, for which a small tip should be paid. Camping is permitted near the huts, and campers can use the hut fires and toilets (a pit latrine and a long drop).
Book ahead for weekends between June and August especially, when the cooler weather makes the massif a popular hiking destination.