Air Madagascar has an office in town, but not at the airport. It flies from Tuléar to Tana (€247), Fort Dauphin (€202) and Morondava (€247). The schedule is a moving target.
Transfert Anakao, an enjoyable speedboat, departs from the tourist port for Anakao every day at 9.30am. This is the best and safest option.
Travel south of Tuléar has long been delayed by the lack of a ferry across the Onilahy River. A new vehicle ferry now operates, although its working hours are very unreliable and hotels in Anakao strongly encourage visitors to use the speedboat service.
The mother of all taxis-brousses, the camion-brousse is a troop transport that plies the god-awful roads between Tuléar and Fort Dauphin (Ar40,000), with stops in Betioky (Ar15,000), Ampanihy (Ar24,000) and Ambovombe (Ar32,000). This takes a whopping 30 to 60 hours, depending on breakdowns and road conditions. But beware: these amusement-park rides are packed beyond capacity. Passengers bounce around and are frequently ill. There are a limited number of breaks. You’ll need a scarf and pullover for the dust and wind. And if you do the trip in stages, you could spend a lot of time waiting for a seat, as the vehicles that pass the towns en route are often full. Finally, provisions are sparse along the way, so you need to stock up ahead of time. All things considered, we challenge you to find a rougher form of public transport.
Taxis-brousses leave the main station early every day for Antananarivo, arriving a day later. Vehicles to Antananarivo may fill up quickly, so get to the station early or book a seat the afternoon before. Destinations and fares along the way include the following.
Transport along the sand road north to Ifaty/Mangily (Ar8000, three hours) departs from the northern taxi-brousse station on Rte de Manombo. There are a few trucks daily, generally departing between 6am and early afternoon.
A taxi-brousse leaves for Morondava a few times weekly (Ar60,000, two to three days). The road is very rough and you'll need to overnight in Manja (Ar33,000) on the way.
Taxis-brousses also connect Tuléar with St Augustine (Ar2500, two hours) along a good sealed road once a day, Tuesday to Saturday. Departures are at noon from Tuléar and 2am from St Augustine.
There’s a taxi-brousse every Thursday to Beheloka and Itampolo (Ar35,000, 12 hours).
It’s relatively easy to hitch a lift from Tuléar to Antananarivo as many tourist vehicles and supply trucks from Antananarivo return to the capital empty. Expect to pay a bit more than the taxi-brousse fare to cover fuel costs, but not much more. The best places to ask are the major hotels, particularly Chez Alain.