Introduction

Viewed from the N27 or CR438, 8km north of Ettelbrück, this splendid castle ruin is surely the nation’s most dramatic. As you get closer, the degree of degradation is much clearer but it’s still very interesting to clamber about the wall stubs. Admission includes a remarkably extensive audio guide and there’s a trio of somewhat odd ‘visuella’ slide presentations to ponder en route. Don’t miss climbing the rather squat, 12th-century, square keep for classic turret-framed views over the forested river bend below.

Bus 545 from Ettelbrück stops in Bourscheid village, from where the lonely castle is a steep 1.8km descent to the southwest. On the way down is the snack-bar-cafe Panorama (attached to a campground) from which views down towards the castle are especially impressive.

After visiting the castle you could descend another winding 2km to the N27 and return to Ettelbrück on bus 550. While awaiting the bus consider a snack, beer or Germanic local dish at the Brasserie de Vieux Moulin, a former watermill near the junction behind a lonely hotel.