Contemporary stone sculptures and a silky-smooth promenade sidle up to the water’s edge, while the main road – Liudviko Rėzos gatvė – is lined with holiday homes and quaint žuvis (fish) outlets.

At Juodkrantė’s northern end is an area around a fishing harbour known as Amber Bay (Gintaro įlanka), recalling the amber excavated in the village in three separate clusters – 2250 tonnes in all – in 1854 to 1855 and 1860. The spit is about 1.5km wide at this point and the fine stretch of forest – good for spotting elk in the early morning and evening – is among the loveliest you will find on the peninsula.


Many places close down during the ‘cold’ season (October to April) so be sure to book in advance to avoid disappointment.


Smoked fish is sold all along Liudviko Rėzos gatvė and self-caterers are limited to an expensive store (open 8am to 10pm) near the start of the Witches’ Hill trail.