Framed by gold-spun beaches, phosphorescent waves and a thick mane of forest, this pretty capital of Grand Cape Mount, just a fishing village a few years ago, has largely retained its simple, paradise-found feel. Now, as you emerge from the rust-red roads and wind your way through the old town with its architecture in various states of undress (look out for the stunning scarlet ruins of the defunct Tubman Center of African Culture), you're greeted by surf lodges and body-boarding tourists.
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