Bar Tartine

Cafe in Beirut

Image by Stephanie d'Arc Taylor Lonely Planet

Yes, it's a chain, but Bar Tartine's original Mar Mikhaël location is set back from the road, up a set of stairs (as many restaurants on this stretch are) into a beautiful tiled courtyard, perfumed with citrus trees and jasmine, shared with a few other restaurants. The food is decent – fresh, if unimaginative, international cafe fare – but you're mainly here for the village atmosphere.

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