Welcome to Baltic Coast Road
Elk antlers dangle from a signpost in Vaide, 10km southwest of Kolka, where there is little to see or do except wonder at the simple wooden houses. If the antlers spark your curiosity, there are 518 more in the Museum of Horns & Antlers. The collection, creatively arranged in an attic, is the result of one man’s lifetime of work as a forest warden in the region (none are hunting trophies).
Eighteenth-century wooden buildings line the sand-paved streets in pleasant Košrags, 6km further along. Spend the night at Pitagi, a quaint guesthouse with beautifully furnished rooms, an on-site sauna and hearty breakfasts in the morning. Rent a bike for the day and peddle up to the cape’s tip.
The gorgeous strip of dune-backed beach in neighbouring Mazirbe, another 4km down the coast, is home to the Livonian People’s House (Livlist rovkuoda in Livonian), which hosts gatherings of Liv descendants and has exhibitions on their culture. An old fishing boat cemetery can be found by the windswept beach. It goes back to the times when Soviet border guards banned locals from using their fishing boats, because they thought people would use them to escape to Sweden. They also banned people to burn old boats during Solstice celebrations in June, or so the legend goes.
About 5km south of Mazirbe you will see a sign for Slītere Lighthouse, 1.4km down an even rougher track. Built in 1849, the lighthouse now functions as an information booth and lookout tower for the park. If the lighthouse is closed, have a wander down the neighbouring nature trail.