Image by Martin Moos Getty Images

This five-peaked rocky crag seems to loom above the city wherever you go. It has been a Muslim place of pilgrimage for centuries, supposedly because the Prophet Mohammed once prayed here. Its slopes are indented with many a cave and crevice each reputed to have different curative or spiritual properties (many detailed on photo-boards in the Cave Museum). One such is fertility mini-cave Ene-Beshik, its rocks worn smooth by young ladies slithering in to aid their motherly aspirations. You'll see it right beside the path to the Cave Museum as you descend westward from Suleiman Too's main viewpoint. On that crag lies the one-room Dom Babura, a 1989 reconstruction of a historic prayer-room whose tradition dates back to 1497, when 14-year-old Zahiruddin Babur of Fergana built himself a little prayer-retreat here. Later famed as progenitor of the Mogul Dynasty, Babur's place of worship later became highly revered but subsequent incarnations have been destroyed notably by both earthquake (1853) and, in the 1960s, by a 'mysterious' explosion.

Allow around 20 minutes' sweaty climb on the hairpin stairway to Dom Babura from Suleiman Too's main entrance, which is beside the strange silver-domed building that looks like an alien fairy cake, but actually contains a photography salon. Inside newlyweds can be snapped on honeymoon at the Taj Mahal without actually bothering to leave Osh.