Čaršija e Jupave

in Gjakova

This cosy 1st-floor hotel-restaurant has friendly staff and big plates of cold cuts (including delicious local cheeses and cured meats). For something more involved, try the excellent Albanian dishes, such as the tave Elbasan (lamb cooked in yogurt and garlic) or the more locally flavoured tave Gjakova (veal cooked with tomatoes and vegetables).

Don't miss its amazing underground wine bar across the alleyway.