The Mara has some of the best and most upmarket accommodation in all of Kenya and, make no mistake, accommodation here can be very expensive. Remember, though, that in most cases all meals are included and in the top-end places, drinks and safari activities are usually part of the deal.

Musiara & Oloololo Gates

There's only top-end accommodation in this part of the park.

Inside the Reserve

There are luxury lodges and tented camps scattered across the reserve. It's only possible to camp within the reserve in its Mara Triangle sector, in either the public campsite or special campsite (private campsites that can be reserved). If camping, you will need to be totally self-sufficient, to the point of bringing your own firewood (using the dead wood within the park is prohibited).

Maasai Village Home Stays

Some years ago James Ole Lesaloi, a young Maasai man from the Sekenani area, got fed up with the lack of development and opportunities for the Maasai living around the reserve and set up Semadep, with the aim to change the lives of the local Maasai. Fast forward a few years and the project, with little publicity or outside help, has been remarkably successful and includes a school, clinic, water projects, orphan projects and a media centre on its list of credits. But for tourists, what is perhaps most interesting is the opportunity it offers to stay in a genuine Maasai manyatta (village) and get a real understanding of Maasai life and culture – and the issues they face.

One such place, run by James himself, is Ewangan, a traditional Maasai manyatta 2km north of Sekenani Gate, offering a homestay with the Maasai. During your stay you'll help with daily chores such as milking the cows and goats, learn skills such as jewellery making and enjoy nature walks with a Maasai guide. At least 25% of your money goes to help support local community projects. Accommodation is very basic, but it's all very cosy and the food is excellent. It's a particularly fun experience for children (we've stayed there with a four-year-old and an 18-month-old and they much preferred this to the fancy lodges and wildlife drives). For the few people who've stayed so far, almost all come away saying it was the highlight of their Kenyan travels.

It's hoped that as the idea gains more popularity, other manyattas under Semadep guidance will also allow homestays (though to really work, no manyatta could host more than one small group at a time). Real Maasai Experience is one that has started up nearby.