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Getting There & Away

The congested matatu terminal in the centre of town is a chaos of loud and often somewhat drunk people trying to bundle you onto the nearest matatu, whether or not you want to go where it's going. If you do manage to pick your own matatu, you'll find regular departures to Homa Bay (KSh250, 1½ hours), Kisumu (KSh300, 2½ hours), Kericho (KSh500, two hours) and Isebania (KSh300, 1¾ hours) on the Tanzanian border.

Tabaka matatus (KSh100, 45 minutes) leave from Cemetery Rd. Returning, it is sometimes easier to catch a boda-boda (KSh100) to the ‘Tabaka junction’ and pick up a Kisii-bound matatu there.

Easy Coach has twice-daily departures to Nairobi (KSh900, eight hours, 10am and 9.30pm). It also has a bus to Narok (KSh500, four hours, 1pm), which is handy for the Mara.