Indeed, Umm Al Jimal is one of the region’s most captivating sites, the ruins of a seemingly lost city in black basalt, rising out of the grey and tan of the surrounding desert.

It’s best to visit early in the morning, or late in the afternoon, when the black basalt isn’t too hot. Allow at least an hour or two to visit the site, although its enormous size (800m by 500m) invites lengthier exploration.