Jerash is cleaved in two by a deep, cultivated wadi. Today, as in the days of the Romans, the bulk of the town’s inhabitants live on the eastern side. The walled city on the western side, graced with grand public monuments, baths and fountains, was reserved for administrative, commercial, civic and religious activities. The two were once linked by causeways and processional paths, and magnificent gates marked the entrance. Today, access to the remains of this walled city is through the most southerly gate, known as Hadrian’s Arch or the Arch of Triumph. There's a ticket office where you can also buy souvenirs, sunhats and cold drinks.

Allow at least three hours to see everything in Jerash, and make sure you take plenty of water, especially in summer. It’s best to avoid walking around the site in the middle of the day between April and September, as there's little shade.