On the road to Onegawa Onsen, this hip cafe offers excellent filter coffee, as well as iced drinks and waffles (from ¥250). It also has a side trade in beautiful textiles – worth a peek if you're passing by.
Hundred-year-old Tokiwa is the best known of the local Yonezawa-gyū (beef) joints. It's in the north of town, a 30-minute walk from the main train station – ask the tourist office for directions.
To really see the feudal era in action, visit on 3 May, when more than 1000 participants in full samurai regalia act out the epic battle of Kawa-naka-jima during the annual Uesugi Matsuri.
In the centre of Matsugasaki-kōen, surrounded by a koi-filled moat, this shrine sits on the land previously occupied by the inner castle during feudal times.