Nightlife

Cafe in Ginzan Onsen

Coté de la Poste

Tucked away on a corner near the bend in the river (next to the orange post box, hence the name), this petite coffee shop is the perfect spot for a post-soak tipple. Drinks are pricey, but the ambiance is unbeatable…
Cocktail Bar in Sakata

Kerun

In business for decades, Kerun is run by an octogenarian Japanese man who whisks up frothy whisky sours from a well-stocked bar that's surrounded by mirrors and booth seating. You can also get lovely filter coffee a…
Cafe in Yonezawa

Fabric&Coffee

On the road to Onegawa Onsen, this hip cafe offers excellent filter coffee, as well as iced drinks and waffles (from ¥250). It also has a side trade in beautiful textiles – worth a peek if you're passing by.
Bar in Zaō Onsen

Oto-chaya

Your one-stop shop for convivial pre- and post-ski rendezvous, Oto-chaya begins with coffee in the mornings and powers right through to sake and beer, with occasional live tunes, in the evenings. Hearty meals (from …
Teahouse in Dewa Sanzan

Ni-no-saka-chaya

Halfway up the stone stairs of Haguro-san, as your calves are burning and your heart is pumping madly, this charming teahouse appears like a mirage. Here you'll be greeted by marvellous views and smiling women selli…
Bar in Tsuruoka

High Noon Diner

Two blocks left from the train station you'll spot the distinctive neon pink flamingo in the window of this cosy retro bar with Guinness on tap. Popular with foreign visitors and locals alike.