Top Choice Market in Ueno & Yanesen


Step into this partially open-air market paralleling and beneath the JR line tracks, and ritzy, glitzy Tokyo feels like a distant memory. It got its start as a black market, post-WWII, when American goods were sold …
Top Choice Homewares in Ueno & Yanesen

Yanaka Matsunoya

At the top of Yanaka Ginza, Matsunoya sells household goods – baskets, brooms and canvas totes, for example – simple in beauty and form, and handmade by local artisans.
Fashion & Accessories in Ueno & Yanesen

Ōkuma Shōkai

Sukajan are silken bomber jackets boldly embroidered, usually with traditional motifs such as cherry blossoms or cranes. They were originally created as souvenirs for American GIs during the Allied Occupation. Sever…
Music in Ueno & Yanesen

Ameyoko Rizumu

For nearly half a century this tiny stall in Ameya-yokochō has been selling recordings of popular Japanese music to the faithful. Its forte is enka, best described as Japanese folk ballads, which, at its best, is sy…
Alcohol in Ueno & Yanesen

Isego Honten

This sake-ya (liquor shop), on a residential street in Sendagi, has been run by the same family for over 300 years. There's usually someone on hand who speaks some English, who can help you pick something from the s…
Arts & Crafts in Ueno & Yanesen

Yubiningyō Shōkichi

Mitsuaki Tsuyuki makes and sells his incredible hand puppets here – look out for lifelike renditions of Japanese celebs and, natch, Elvis. He can hand-make a portrait puppet from a photograph (¥40,000). Far more aff…
Shoes in Ueno & Yanesen

Mita Sneakers

Ameya-yokochō is widely known as the place to pick up bargain kicks; but among sneaker heads, it's better known as the home of Mita Sneakers, which sells limited-edition made-in-Japan shoes and exclusive collaborati…
Arts & Crafts in Ueno & Yanesen

Nippori Fabric Town

If you have a notion to sew, or are looking for some nice fabric, this stretch of shops east of Nippori Station – selling buttons, brocade, kimono fabric scraps and more – will hit you like a proverbial bolt. Take t…
Art in Ueno & Yanesen

Edokoro Allan West

In this masterfully converted garage, long-time Yanaka resident Allan West paints gorgeous screens and scrolls in the traditional Japanese style, making his paints from scratch just as local artists have done for ce…
Arts & Crafts in Ueno & Yanesen


Dating back to 1864, this venerable stationery shop specialises in chiyogami – gorgeous, colourful paper made using woodblocks – as well as papier-mâché figures and masks.