Ueno & Yanesen shopping

Top Choice Market in Ueno & Yanesen


Step into this partially open-air market paralleling and beneath the JR line tracks, and ritzy, glitzy Tokyo feels like a distant memory. It got its start as a black market, post-WWII, when American goods (which inc…
Top Choice Arts & Crafts in Ueno & Yanesen

Geidai Art Plaza

On the campus of Tokyo's top arts university this shop, opened in 2018, showcases creative pieces in a range of media by the institute's staff, students and graduates. It's well worth a browse and if you can't affor…
Top Choice Homewares in Ueno & Yanesen

Yanaka Matsunoya

At the top of Yanaka Ginza, Matsunoya sets out its stall with an attractive range of mainly household goods – baskets, brooms and canvas totes, for example – simple in beauty and form, and handmade by local artisans…
Art in Ueno & Yanesen

Art Sanctuary Allan West

In this masterfully converted garage, long-time Yanaka resident Allan West paints gorgeous screens and scrolls in the traditional Japanese style, making his paints from scratch just as local artists have done for ce…
Fashion & Accessories in Ueno & Yanesen

Ōkuma Shōkai

Sukajan are silken bomber jackets boldly embroidered, usually with traditional motifs such as cherry blossoms or cranes. They were originally created as souvenirs for American GIs during the Allied Occupation. Sever…
Music in Ueno & Yanesen

Ameyoko Rizumu

For nearly half a century this tiny stall in Ameya-yokochō has been selling recordings of popular Japanese music to the faithful. Its forte is enka, best described as Japanese folk ballads, which, at its best, is sy…
Arts & Crafts in Ueno & Yanesen

Yubiningyō Shōkichi

Mitsuaki Tsuyuki makes and sells his incredible hand puppets here – look for lifelike renditions of Japanese celebs and, natch, Elvis. Quick portraits drawn via one of his hand puppets cost ¥1000.
Shoes in Ueno & Yanesen

Mita Sneakers

Ameya-yokochō is widely known as the place to pick up bargain kicks; but among sneaker heads, it's better known as the home of Mita Sneakers, which sells limited-edition made-in-Japan shoes and exclusive collaborati…
Arts & Crafts in Ueno & Yanesen

Nippori Fabric Town

If you have a notion to sew, or are looking for some nice fabric, this stretch of shops east of Nippori Station – selling buttons, brocade, kimono fabric scraps and more – will hit you like a proverbial bolt. Take t…
Department Store in Ueno & Yanesen


Ueno's main department store, in business since 1907, stocks pretty much all you could want. If you can't find it here, it's likely to be in the connected Parco-ya complex, opened in 2017.