Must-see restaurants in Tokyo

  • Hagi Cafe

    Ueno & Yanesen

    Part of the gallery and event space Hagiso, run by students from Tokyo University of the Arts (Geidai), this is a good all-rounder for meals, drinks and…

  • Kōenji Gādo-shita

    Tokyo

    This is Kōenji's signature nomiyagai (eating and drinking strip), a collection of shabby (and cheap!) yakitori (chicken, and other meats or vegetables,…

  • Hoppy-dōri

    Asakusa & Sumida River

    Along either side of the street popularly known as Hoppy-dōri – ‘hoppy’ is a cheap malt beverage – are rows of izakaya (Japanese pub-eateries) with…

  • Honmura-An

    Roppongi, Akasaka & Around

    This fabled soba shop, once located in Manhattan, now serves its handmade buckwheat noodles at this small, elegant shop on a Roppongi side street. It's a…

  • Kamachiku

    Ueno & Yanesen

    Kama-age udon (wheat noodles served straight in the cook pot) is the speciality at this popular restaurant. It's part beautifully restored brick warehouse…

  • Toraya Tokyo Midtown

    Roppongi, Akasaka & Around

    Confectionary Toraya was founded in 16th century Kyoto; clients have included the Imperial Court. But its specialty, yokan, is pretty simple: adzuki (red…

  • Shishimaru Shokudō

    Asakusa & Sumida River

    The house speciality at this eccentric shack-like joint in the shadow of Tokyo Sky Tree is te-uchi udon (handmade wheat noodles); other dishes to sample…

  • Koto-ga-ume

    Asakusa & Sumida River

    When sumo wrestler Koto-ga-ume retired he opened this restaurant specialising in chanko-nabe, the protein-rich stew that rikishi (sumo wrestlers) eat by…

  • Kaikaya

    Shibuya & Shimo-Kitazawa

    Traveller favourite Kaikaya serves seafood, much of which is caught in nearby Sagami Bay, in a variety of styles. The whole casual set-up is a homage to…

  • Mori-no-Butchers

    Kōrakuen & Akihabara

    'No meat, no life' is the catchphrase of this rustic and hip restaurant specialising in grilled steak, lamb and chicken. The cuts of meat are good and…

  • Rokurinsha

    Asakusa & Sumida River

    Rokurinsha's speciality is tsukemen – ramen noodles served on the side with a bowl of concentrated soup for dipping. The noodles here are thick and…

  • Kojimachi Cafe

    Roppongi, Akasaka & Around

    Offering an appealing melting pot of international dishes – from salade niçoise to a Philly cheese steak – made with fine local produce, this spacious…

  • Pignon

    Shibuya & Shimo-Kitazawa

    Chef Yoshikawa Rimpei's bistro serves French food with some Moroccan flavours in the mix (everyone orders the housemade, charcoal-grilled merguez with…

  • Bricolage Bread & Co

    Roppongi, Akasaka & Around

    A collaboration between coffee shop Fuglen, Michelin-starred restaurant L'effervescence and Osaka-based bakery Le Sucré Coeur is naturally the perfect…

  • Omoide-yokochō

    Shinjuku & Northwest Tokyo

    Literally ‘Memory Lane’ (and less politely known as Shonben-yokochō, or ‘Piss Alley’), Omoide-yokochō started as a postwar black market and somehow…

  • Higashi-Yama

    Ebisu, Meguro & Around

    Higashi-Yama serves beautiful modern Japanese cuisine; the interior, a rustic take on minimalism, is stunning too. The restaurant is all but hidden, on a…

  • Nata de Cristiano

    Shibuya & Shimo-Kitazawa

    This counter shop sells seriously good pastéis de nata (Portuguese egg tarts) along with savoury snacks like bifanas (seasoned pork sandwiches) – more…

  • Yakiniku Champion

    Ebisu, Meguro & Around

    Champion is one of Tokyo's best spots for yakiniku – literally 'grilled meat' and the Japanese term for Korean barbecue. The menu runs the gamut from…

  • Handsome Shokudō

    Tokyo

    The chefs here, who train in Thailand, turn out seriously good Thai dishes (though maybe not quite spicy enough to count as truly authentic) served with…

  • Delifucious

    Shibuya & Shimo-Kitazawa

    What happens when a former Ginza sushi chef turns his attention to – of all things – hamburgers? You get fish burgers and anago (seafaring eel) hot dogs…

  • Komagata Dozeu

    Asakusa & Sumida River

    Since 1801, Komagata Dozeu has been simmering and stewing dojō (Japanese loach, which looks something like a miniature eel). Dojō-nabe (loach hotpot),…

  • Mominoki House

    Harajuku & Aoyama

    This pioneering macrobiotic restaurant has been running since 1976, long enough to see many a Harajuku trend come and go (and to see some famous visitors,…

  • Hainan Jeefan Shokudō

    Roppongi, Akasaka & Around

    This cosy, white-walled ‘hawker-style Asian canteen’ is a small slice of Singapore. Hainan-style chicken rice, Singapore’s national dish, is the…

  • Ohitotsuzen Tanbo

    Shinjuku & Northwest Tokyo

    The speciality here is the least glamorous part of the meal – the rice, which comes from an organic farm the restaurant manages in Niigata Prefecture. It…

  • Yanmo

    Harajuku & Aoyama

    Freshly caught seafood from the nearby Izu Peninsula is the speciality at this upscale, yet unpretentious, restaurant. The dinner courses, which include…

  • Mucha-an

    Shinjuku & Northwest Tokyo

    Mucha-an is in an old wooden ryokan transported from across town to the gardens at Chinzan-sō. The soba (buckwheat noodles) are made in-house: go for…

  • Canal Cafe

    Kōrakuen & Akihabara

    Along a languid stretch of what was once the outer moat of Edo Castle, this is one of Tokyo’s best al fresco dining spots. The restaurant serves tasty…

  • Tensuke

    Tokyo

    A legitimate candidate for eighth wonder of the modern world is Tensuke's tamago (egg) tempura, which comes out batter-crisp on the outside and runny in…

  • Rose Bakery Marunouchi

    Tokyo

    Tokyo has taken to organic cafe Rose Bakery's no-fuss style of dining. Vegetarians and those with a love for British cakes and baked goods are well served…

  • Edo Noren

    Asakusa & Sumida River

    The old Ryōgoku Station has been transformed into this touristy, sumo-themed food hall with souvenir shops and 11 different restaurants on two floors. In…

  • Gochisō Tonjiru

    Shinjuku & Northwest Tokyo

    Tonjiru, a home-cooking classic, is a hearty miso soup packed with root veggies (such as burdock root, daikon/radish, potato and carrot) and chunks of…

  • Bird Land

    Ginza & Tsukiji

    Most yakitori restaurants fall into the 'cheap and cheerful' category. Not Birdland: here chefs in whites grill heirloom free-range chicken (from Ibaraki…

  • Komeshiruna

    Harajuku & Aoyama

    This food truck – our vote for Tokyo's best – is kitted out with a real wood-burning kamada, an old-fashioned cauldron-style rice cooker. And the…

  • Nagi

    Shinjuku & Northwest Tokyo

    Nagi, once an edgy upstart in the ramen world, now has branches around the city. This tiny shop is one of the originals, located up a treacherous stairway…

  • Gonpachi

    Roppongi, Akasaka & Around

    This cavernous old Edo-style space (said to have inspired a memorable set in Quentin Tarantino's Kill Bill) is a Tokyo dining institution, with other less…

  • Manboshi

    Tokyo

    Work your way through Inokashira-kōen and then end up at this little tavern – whose name means '10,000 stars' – at the far tip of the park, just steps…

  • Agaru Sagaru Nishi-iru Higashi-iru

    Harajuku & Aoyama

    This chill little restaurant serves Kyoto-style food (deceptively simple, with the ingredients – always seasonal – taking centre stage) without pretense…

  • Udon Yamachō

    Ebisu, Meguro & Around

    This rustic-chic noodle joint alongside the Shibuya-gawa, with ties to Osaka's famous Kuro-mon market, is one of Tokyo's best spots for Kansai-style udon …

  • Katsu Midori

    Shibuya & Shimo-Kitazawa

    This kaiten-zushi (conveyor-belt sushi restaurant) iis known to be far better than average, so there's nearly always a queue. Go at nontypical meal times …

  • Nakajima

    Shinjuku & Northwest Tokyo

    In the evening, Nakajima serves exquisite kaiseki (Japanese haute cuisine) dinners. On weekdays, it also serves a set lunch of humble iwashi (sardines)…

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