Narukiyo

Top choice Izakaya

in Shibuya & Shimo-Kitazawa

Narukiyo is many people's favourite 'secret' izakaya, serving all the classics (sashimi, charcoal grilled chicken, etc) with a low-key attitude that bellies the excellence of the food. It also comes with a side order of punk-rock cheek (the Pogues' Shane MacGowan is a regular). The menu, which changes daily, is handwritten on a scroll and undecipherable.

Sit at the counter (the best spot, anyway) and point, or leave the ordering up to chef Narukiyo Yoshida. Reservations recommended.