Nagi, once an edgy upstart in the ramen world, now has branches around the city. This tiny shop is one of the originals, located up a treacherous stairway in Golden Gai. It's still our favourite (we're clearly not alone as there's often a line). The house speciality is niboshi ramen (egg noodles in a broth flavoured with dried sardines). Look for the sign with a red circle.