in Shibuya & Shimo-Kitazawa

Traveller favourite Kaikaya serves seafood, much of which is caught in nearby Sagami Bay, in a variety of styles. The whole casual set-up is a homage to the sea, with surfboards on the wall. The courses are a good deal; for à la carte orders, there's a ¥400 cover charge. Staff speak good English; reservations recommended.

From Dōgenzaka, turn right after the police box; the restaurant, with a red awning, will be on your right.