Japanese in Ueno & Yanesen

Housed in a beautifully wooden building from 1909, Hantei is a local landmark. It serves courses of kushiage (meat, fish and vegetables deep-fried in oil like tempura but coated in panko rather than batter) with palate-cleansing raw vegetables and miso dip on the side. The lunch set comes with eight skewers, dinner with 12, after which you can decide to order more.