Donjaca

Izakaya in Shinjuku & Northwest Tokyo

Donjaca, in business since 1979, has many telltale signs of a classic Shōwa-era (1926–89) izakaya (Japanese pub-eatery): red vinyl stools, lantern lighting and hand-written menus covering the wall. The food is equal parts classic (grilled fish and fried chicken) and inventive: a house speciality is nattō gyōza (dumplings stuffed with fermented soybeans). Excellent sake, too.

Warning: Donjaca can get smoky. If the main shop is full, staff will likely direct you around the corner to the larger annex.