Top Choice Japanese in Ueno & Yanesen


In a gorgeous wooden building dating back to 1875, Innsyoutei (pronounced 'inshotei' and meaning 'rhyme of the pine cottage') has long been a favourite spot for fancy kaiseki-style meals while visiting Ueno-kōen. Wi…
Izakaya in Ueno & Yanesen


In business since 1925, Shinsuke has honed the concept of an ideal izakaya to perfection: long cedar counter, 'master' in happi (traditional short coat) and hachimaki (traditional headband), and smooth-as-silk daigi…
Cafe in Ueno & Yanesen


We've seen a lot of cafe mashups on our travels but this might just be the only ornamental goldfish breeder-cum-cafe around. Kingyozaka (the name means 'goldfish slope') has some serious history: it's been in the or…
Cafe in Ueno & Yanesen

Hagi Cafe

Part of the gallery and event space Hagiso, run by students from Tokyo University of the Arts (Geidai), this is a good all-rounder for meals, drinks and sweets in the heart of Yanaka. Its Japanese-style breakfast is…
Tofu in Ueno & Yanesen


Sasa-no-Yuki opened its doors in the Edo period, and continues to serve its signature dishes with tofu made fresh every morning using water from the shop’s own well. Some treats to expect: ankake-dofu (tofu in a thi…
Japanese in Ueno & Yanesen


Housed in a beautifully maintained, century-old traditional wooden building, Hantei is a local landmark. Delectable skewers of seasonal kushiage (fried meat, fish and vegetables) are served with small, refreshing si…
Sweets in Ueno & Yanesen


Summer in Japan is synonymous with kakigōri, shaved ice topped with colorful syrups and sweetened condensed milk. So popular is Himitsu-dō, however, that a queue can form even in the dead of winter. One of the secre…
Udon in Ueno & Yanesen


Udon (thick wheat noodles) made fresh daily is the speciality at this popular restaurant, in a beautifully restored brick warehouse from 1910 with a view onto a garden. In addition to noodles, the menu includes lots…
Japanese in Ueno & Yanesen

Izu-ei Honten

Izu-ei's twin delights are its delicious unagi (eel) and its elegant, traditional atmosphere, with waitstaff in kimonos and tatami seating (there are chairs, too).
Yakitori in Ueno & Yanesen


On Yanaka Ginza, Nagomi deals in juicy skewers of ji-dori (free-range chicken). There are plenty of grilled vegie options, too. Wash it all down with a bowl of chicken-soup ramen. Look for the sake bottles in the wi…