Harajuku and Aoyama have lots of great cafes and teahouses for leg-weary shoppers. Both neighbourhoods get pretty quiet after the shops close for the day; there are a handful of glowing windows after dark, but you have to know where to find them.

Feature: Meiji-jingū Gaien Beer Gardens

Summer beer gardens are a Tokyo tradition (typically running late May to early September). Two of the city's best are within Meiji-jingū Gaien (the 'Outer Garden' of Meiji-jingū). Forest Beer Garden hosts up to 1000 revellers for all-you-can-eat-and-drink spreads of beer and barbecue (men/women ¥4200/3900, discounted for kids) under a century-old tree. Reserve online.

At the more patrician Beer Terrace Sekirei, you can unwind at tables overlooking the neatly clipped lawn of the stately Meiji Kinenkan (a banquet hall used for weddings). Food and drink start from a (relatively) reasonable ¥1000, plus 12% service charge. Music and dance performances take place nightly at 6.30pm, 7.30pm and 8.30pm. You can reserve a 'premium table' for ¥6000 that seats four, otherwise it's first come, first served for ordinary seating.

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