This traditional eatery, in a 200-year-old warehouse with chunky beams and long wooden tables, is famed for mamakari, the sardine-like local speciality. The tasty fish is supposed to induce bouts of uncontrollable feasting, so that people are obliged to kari (borrow) more mama (rice) from their neighbours in order to carry on with their binge.

There are sets at lunch and kaiseki-style course options (from ¥4200; reservations recommended) available at dinner, as well as an à la carte menu.