Northwest of Sannomiya Station is salaryman central, with myriad izakaya and bars. Head to Hirai to sample the house speciality, katsuo wara-yaki (bonito charred over straw), or house-made gyōza (dumplings), alongside izakaya standards. Wash it all down with beer, sake or highballs. Look for the sake barrels and red lantern outside, two short blocks west of Kitanozaka.