Kinosaki has seven soto-yu (public baths), large and small, simple and elaborate. If you visit more than one you'll want to get the 'yu-meguri' pass (¥1200), which gives you entry to all of them. Most lodgings have their own uchi-yu (private baths) but offer complementary yu-meguri passes. All the baths are fed from the same springs, which are naturally alkaline and a little bit salty. While some public bathhouses in Japan refuse entry to customers with tattoos, Kinosaki is totally cool with your ink.