Wakkanai (稚内), Japan's northernmost city at 45°N, changes wildly with the seasons. From November to March, it's something akin to a remote Siberian outpost, home to hearty fishers, kelp farmers and a harp-seal colony. Outside the winter months, it's a pleasantly mild port city that serves as a departure point for ferries to the islands of Rishiri-tō and Rebun-tō
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