Trattoria alla Rivetta

Tucked behind the Ponte San Provolo, this trattoria hums with the chatter of contented diners even in the dead of winter. It is staffed by a clutch of senior waiters in jovial red waistcoats, who’ll cordially serve you platters of lagoon fare such as raw seafood antipasti, pasta with clams and fritto misto (mixed fried seafood).