At this Cannaregio institution, you'll be seated where there's room and get no menu – you'll have whatever Marisa's cooking. And you'll like it. Lunches are a bargain at €15 for a first, main, side, wine, water and coffee – pace yourself through prawn risotto to finish with steak and grilled zucchini, or Marisa will jokingly scold you over coffee.

For dinner, you will be informed whether the absurdly abundant menu is meat- or fish-based when you book (ample house wine is included in the fixed price). The fish menu brings hauls of lagoon seafood grilled, fried and perched atop pasta and arugula, while meaty menus often feature Marisa’s fegato alla veneziana (Venetian calf’s liver) to send Venetian regulars into raptures. Advance reservations and pre-meal fasting advised. No credit cards.