Top choice seafood in Trieste

This bright, buzzing reinvention of the Triestine buffet features fish and seafood. Order at the bar from a menu of small dishes: white polenta and baccalà mantecato (salt-cod purée) or seppie bolito (cuttlefish stew), prawn ceviche, anchovy butter tartines. Wash it down with a well-chosen Friulian or Veneto white and a good sparkling.

There are plenty of reasons to linger, starting with the huge library of cookbooks and restaurant guides, a welcoming communal table and a daily delivery of international newspapers.