Top Choice Seafood in Trieste


This bright, buzzing reinvention of the Triestine buffet features fish and seafood. Order at the bar from a menu of small dishes: white polenta and baccalà mantecato (salt-cod purée) or seppie bolito (cuttlefish ste…
Seafood in Trieste

Al Bagatto

This old-timer, with its dark, brooding dining room, does a Triestine seafood degustazione – fritto misto (fried seafood) and something involving squid ink will invariably play a part – that's daunting but delicious…
Cafeteria in Trieste


Perpetually busy Genuino packs them in for big salads, fish, wild rice and roast vegetable combination plates, seasonal soup and chicken burgers. It's fast and furious and on fast food-style plates and trays, but re…
Buffet in Trieste

Buffet da Siora Rosa

Opened before WWII, the family-run Siora Rosa is one Trieste's traditional buffets (bar-restaurants). Sit outside or in the wonderfully retro interior and tuck into boiled pork, sauerkraut and other Germanic and Hun…
Buffet in Trieste

Buffet Da Pepi

The counter here is a site of porcine carnage: legs, necks, bellies, tongues and testicles, all awaiting a slap of relish from the huge ceramic jars of mustard and a grate of kren (horseradish). Hot, takeaway briske…
Buffet in Trieste

Buffet Rudy

Rudy has been concocting traditional boiled meats, cold cuts and beer since, oh, 1897. Come for the pork joints, served up with the house sauerkraut or just drinks and snacks at the bar (this being the beer-iest of …
Pastries in Trieste


This jewel-box pastry shop and cafe was one of Joyce's favourites. Its nutty, spicy, boozy Triestine speciality cakes, putizza, presnitz and pinza, are particularly good.
Pastries in Trieste


Brave the battalion of Illy-gulping locals off to work at this cafe-bakery. Try a slice of putizza or another Trienstini speciality, most usually sold only as whole cakes or loaves.
Gelato in Trieste

Gelateria Zampolli

Be prepared for the crowds if you want to sample the city's best gelato: the Sachertorte flavour is a must, and its mousse-style range can't be beaten.