The Italian Riviera drinking and nightlife

Top Choice Cocktail Bar in Genoa

Les Rouges

One of Genoa's surfeit of crumbling palazzi is being put to excellent use in this atmospheric cocktail bar. Three bearded, vest-wearing, red-headed brothers – the 'rouges' of the name – man the floor and shake up on…
Top Choice Wine Bar in Genoa

Cantine Matteotti

The Puccini wafting up the laneway gives you some clue that this is a special little place. The owners here have a passion for good music and for good wine, and will pour you some amazing local drops and stave off y…
Top Choice Bar in Riomaggiore

La Conchiglia

A fantastic find: down-to-earth, friendly and unflustered staff; a fantastic well-priced local wine list; absolute waterfront positions and a menu of big, healthy salads, panini and burgers if you've missed lunch or…
Top Choice Bar in Corniglia

La Scuna

Vinyl, beer and a panoramic terrace? This bastion of hipsterdom comes as a surprise in this most traditional of regions but the welcome is warm and the beers on tap are both cold and a cut way above bottled Peroni.
Wine Bar in Genoa

Enoteca Pesce

Tiny wine bars dot Genoa's old city, although this one, under the arches by the port, is particularly characteristic and full of colourful locals. They are serious about their wine, though glasses hover around the €…
Bar in Genoa

Bar Gio.Si

If you've been yearning for some late-night drinking fun, this antica-is-the-new-black place is your answer. A completely untouched old-school backstreet bar, along with its elderly owners, have become the darlings …
Bar in Genoa

Cavo Cafe

Admire the exquisite 17th-century frescoes of Bernardo Strozzi while sipping on your aperitivo spritz or wine in this spectacular bar-cafe (it also serves lunch and dinner) encased in an old Doria palace. For somewh…
Wine Bar in Vernazza

Burgus Bar

A charming little hole-in-the-wall, with only a couple of ringside benches looking over Piazza Marconi to the little beach, this neighbourhood bar serves up glasses of the fragrant, ethereal mix of local Albarola, B…
Cafe in Genoa

Café degli Specchi

A bit of Turin disconnected and relocated 150km to the south, this tiled art deco showpiece was (and is) a favourite hang-out of Genoa's intellectuals. You can sink your espresso at street level or disappear upstair…
Cafe in Genoa

Fratelli Klainguti

Pre-dating cappuccinos, Klainguti opened in 1828 and its Mittel European charms, and presumably its strudel and pastries, had Verdi and Garibaldi coming back for more. Waiters in bow ties toil under an impressive ch…