Top things to do

Top Choice Tuscan in Barga

Locanda di Mezzo

Local lads Giulio and Francesco provide the creative fun and energy behind Barga's top address, its tables enviably strewn in summer across photogenic Piazza Santissima Annunziata. Traditional Tuscan dishes get a di…
Top Choice Osteria in Castelnuovo di Garfagnana

Osteria Vecchia Mulino

Run with passion and humour by the gregarious Andrea Bertucci, this 160-year-old osteria has no menu but rather a symphony of cold dishes crafted from local products and brought to shared tables one at a time. Bottl…
Historic Site in Carrara

Cava di Fantiscritti

Head up the mountain to this dusty, truck-busy cava de marmo (marble quarry), through a dramatic series of tunnels used by trains to transport marble from 1890 until the 1960s when trucks took over. At the Fantiscri…
Gelato in Castelnuovo di Garfagnana

Fuori dal Centro

Dare we say it: having tried and tested dozens of Tuscan gelaterie, this bright modern ice-cream shop comes out tops. Fuori dal Centro's regional-inspired flavours are magnificent. Try chestnut, fig and honey, pine …
Tuscan in Bagni di Lucca

Buca di Baldabò

Perched on a hillock above chestnut and walnut forests, this is an iconic address every local foodie knows about. Hidden at the back of the village bar, it has no printed menu. Listen to what's cooking that day and …
Osteria in Carrara

Osteria nella Pia'

It's worth getting lost in Colonnata's tangle of narrow lanes to find this family-run osteria, a local favourite for tasty lardo platters and imaginative pasta dishes. The penne con lardo e pesto d'ortica (penne wit…
Tuscan in Carrara

Dalle Zie

Locals rave about this tiny family-run trattoria on Cathedral Sq, aptly called 'By Auntie' and with an inviting 'Cibo e Vino' (food and wine) strapline. Cuisine is strictly local, with plenty of traditional, potato-…
Tuscan in Barga

Sosta dei Diavoli

It might seem to be just another humble, family-run cafe-bar in rural Tuscany, but the Devil's Stop is wickedly good. Come 7.30pm, owner Lorenzo Giuliani dons his chef's apron to cook up a small but sensational choi…
Food in Castelnuovo di Garfagnana

Alimentari Poli Roberto

Across from the old city gate, sacks of beans, chickpeas, walnuts and porcini sit outside this grocer's shop – the chestnut beer, beer made from locally grown farro, farro-encrusted pecorino and honey are prerequisi…
Tuscan in Carrara

Locanda Apuana

This traditional trattoria, just off central Piazza Palestro, is the place to feast on crostini caldi con lardo (warm toasts topped with lardo), deliciously paired with caramised figs, capers and white onion rings p…