San Sperate

San Sperate, a small town just over 20km northwest of Cagliari, is worth a quick detour for its colourful murals. These present a Daliesque tableau of traditional country life as well as depicting more modern urban trends (skateboards stretching down a wall like an array of colourful tongues). Check out Pinuccio Sciola's epic Storia di San Sperate (History of San Sperate; 1997) and the surreal pop-art works on Via Concordia and Via Decimo.

If you're in need of a break, Ada is a fine Sardinian restaurant serving antipasto of crudi (raw seafood), homemade pasta with truffles, local wine and artisanal beer.

Hourly buses serve San Sperate from Cagliari (€1.90, 30 minutes).