At first glance the menu here looks more Californian than Campanian, with such imaginative salads as spicy chickpea and spinach, and fennel with beetroot and orange. The enthusiastic young owner has tapped into traditional dishes and given them an innovative twist: white-bean soup with baby squid, aubergine parmigiana with swordfish sauce, stuffed-pepper roulade and so on.

The setting on Piazza Tasso is one of the best for people-watching, though one of the worst for exhaust fumes.