Trattoria Zampagna

Trattoria in Southern Rome

One of a line-up of restaurants with pavement terraces overlooking the hulk of Basilica de San Paolo Fuori Le Mura, this humble trattoria cooks up wholesome home-cooking as it's done for the past 80-odd years. Tuck into gnocchi – as Roman tradition demands – on Thursday, baccalà (salted cod) on Friday, and tripe on Saturday. The homemade tiramisu is exceptional.