Pizzeria Ai Marmi

Pizza in Trastevere & Gianicolo

Also called l’obitorio (the morgue) because of its vintage marble-slab tabletops, this is Trastevere’s most popular pizzeria. Think super-thin pizzas, a clattering buzz, testy waiters, a huge street terrace and some fantastic fried starters – the supplì (risotto balls), baccalà (salted cod) and zucchini flowers are all heavenly. Skip the pastas. They're serious here: the menu notes the few toppings that are frozen.